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D.I.Y. Hood Stay for Aquarium Cabinet

 
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Kana3
River Torrent
River Torrent


Joined: 27 Dec 2005
Posts: 1851
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 10:17 pm    Post subject: D.I.Y. Hood Stay for Aquarium Cabinet Reply with quote

It didn't take long to discover two problems, when I installed my new Tank with Cabinet and Hood. First up, when fully open, the woodstained Lid came in contact with our white lounge wall. I was always jamming in a box of Tissues to hold it up. Secondly, if the Lid came down under gravity, it made a bang that you were sure would crack the Tank!

Whilst poking around in a local Hardware Store (as always, for something else), I came across these 'Lid Stays'. They're designed for lids on Clothes and Toy Chests, and the like. They lock into the open position, and with a gentle pull, will provide a resistance, and lower the lid without slamming.

So I grabbed one of these 'Stays', at about Aus $35. Took it home, out of the pack, and stood in front of the Tank. I originally thought I'd have it concealed inside the Hood. But unfortunately, there's a glass tank in there - no room for the Arm to lower (plus I was slightly concerned about oil or grease contaminating the Tank). So I had to go for the outside option.



Now, the instructions have everything mapped out, Metric and Imperial measurements, alternate opening angles, drilling templates. But all for a flat lid! Not for a sloped Aquarium Hood. So I mapped out in pencil on the end of the hood, lots of guess-work, in the open and retracted positions.

Now that I had a drilling template, the next hurdle was the attachment to the Lid. You can see that my Hood has very little overlap from the Lid. When I sit the 'Stay' on the end of the Hood, the 'foot' that attachs under the Lid, actually swings up past the Lid! Hopefully you can see this, my solution was to Route out a shallow, in which the base plate would mount. This brought the 'foot' back in under the Lid (barely).

So, drill the pilot holes, position the 'Stay', pop in the screws, and back onto the Tank for a test. Excellant! Just a bit of an adjustment to the resistance with a scewdriver, and 'Bob's your Uncle!'

Now I have a four foot lid. And by rights, a lid this heavy should have both a Left and Right 'Stay' (yes, they do come in L and R). And in hindsight, I probably should have positioned the 'Stay' to provide more 'oomph' in terms of leverage. My 'Stay' is at full resistance, and could be a tad more gentle, but I know if dropped, it won't do more than frighten a couple of fish.

My 'Stay' is Model NSD-20R/L manufactured by Sugatsune. It's a marvellous little piece of engineering. And well worth the price.

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Angels, Black Mollies, Bristlenose', Clown Loaches, Cory Aeneus, Gibby, Guppies, Hockey-stick Tetras, Keyhole Cichlids, Otocinclus.
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themuckypaw
Moderator


Joined: 04 Feb 2006
Posts: 485
Location: Glasgow, Scotland

PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

very nice.

on my jewel rio tank there are thin plastic flaps that are handy for easy removal and access but they do tend to slam shut a bit if i am not carefull. not enough to endanger the glass but enough to freak the fish out. the stay would work better on the cabinet doors, for me, which can slam shut a bit too.

i have a home made hood on my other big tank but its 5 mm ply and hasnt even got a hinge on it yet. i just lift the main flap up and slide it back to feed the fish. the wood is prob too thin to be able to fit the stay. i may try and work on something similar if and when i get around to putting a hinge on the flap.

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6 tanks from 40g - 6g

100s of baby convicts, 6 harlequins, 6 black neons, 5 zebra danios, 5 kuhli loaches, lots of varying corys, 2 clown loaches, 2 bristlenose plecs, lots of shrimps. 30+ bristlenose babies and lots of baby zebra danios
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