Joined: 09 Aug 2006 Posts: 36 Location: The Big Apple, New York City
Posted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 9:58 pm Post subject: Decorating with Slow-Growing Plants
Decorating with Slow-Growing Plants
Some utilitarian ways to make your aquarium look better
Lace plant-the slowest growing aponogeton. Live plants have many advantages in our aquariums. They eat up our fishes’ waste products—carbon dioxide, phosphates, and nitrogenous wastes. Plants also help fishes acclimate to their new homes almost instantly. Most important, they look great. Slow-growing plants live strange lives that even make some of them adaptable to goldfish bowls. However, they look better in full size aquaria.
Banana plants- also grow slowly. They’re a mini-water lily.
Low Light Provide less light to slow growers. Under high light, algae often take over. Algae-eating shrimps help a lot. Decreasing the light works better.
Java fern (microsorum pteropus) usually starts out as an unanchored sprig of just a few leaves. It takes forever to grow. Small Containers. You can throw a sprig of Java lance fern in a goldfish bowl or a betta bowl and it thrives – slowly of course. It may take a year to get a good start. Java lance fern thrives in the light available in your room. In fact, high light seems to slow its growth. We’ve seen some impressive stands of this plant growing in racks of betta jars. When you add this plant to the water, you can take longer between water changes. Planted Aquaria. Java lance fern looks even better in a planted tank – particularly in low light tanks. You need to attach it to wood or rocks with fish line or a rubber band. If you can find it already attached to wood or a rock, just drop it in your tank for instant décor. Fish Resistant. Most fishes – cichlids included – either dislike the taste of these plants or find them too tough to tear loose.
Anubius attached to limestone. Anubius species from Africa grow just as slowly in aquaria as the lance fern. Most of the species grow faster in humid terraria. You couldn’t ask for a better terrarium plant. It needs little light and next to no nutrition. In a terrarium you need not worry about algae covering your anubius.
In an aquarium, its bright green leaves contrast nicely with the dark green leaves of the Java lance fern. It attaches very strongly to wood and rocks. Like the lance ferns, most anubius species resist all but the strongest cichlids. No plants stand up to red devils and other destructive large cichlids.
Cryptocorynes grow from an underground rhizome that burrows below your gravel and sends up attractive plants. It hates being moved. It sometimes takes months to recover from transplant shock. Cryptocorynes grow to carpet your tank floor. Not a good place for cichlids. Once a cryptocoryne mother plant gets established, it grows nicely. Keep your under gravel vacuum cleaners away from its roots. Plant it in the dimmer areas of your aquarium.
Bolbitis
grows on wood and rocks also. You won’t find this fern species available often. You need to attach it to wood or rock to grow it successfully.
Java moss carpets rocks and wood. Once established, it grows quite rapidly. Keep it in low light or algae possess it like a demon. It’s tough to get out the algae without algae-eating shrimp. Java moss will grow nicely on terrarium floors. Loose blobs of Java moss make great baby savers. Killifish keepers use it as an egg collector.
Summary. You get better results when you grow fast and slow growing plants together. Use the fast-growing plants to fill in till the slow growers get started.
Special Thanks to LA for the profile.
_________________ Good advice is always certain to be ignored, but that's no reason not to give it.
Joined: 09 Aug 2006 Posts: 36 Location: The Big Apple, New York City
Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:24 pm Post subject:
Kana3 wrote:
My problem is, slow growing plants tend to die off, under a covering of furry blackness !
In this case and if you are not in a hurry put them in a bucket in your yard and watch them grow quicker. Then tou could just transfer them on to your tank.
_________________ Good advice is always certain to be ignored, but that's no reason not to give it.
Joined: 04 Feb 2006 Posts: 485 Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 4:34 pm Post subject:
a nicely presented post, pics etc.
being as i'm 'old' Nick, i have to play devils advocate and disagree slightly. i find that when conditions are good java fern spreads, and grows, like a nasty rash.
good conditions, in my opinion, are LOTS of light, slightly acidic water and CO2 (although it can grow well without CO2).
in my tanks i have ferns that are so dense, with fat leaves, that some fish struggle to swim through them and leaves as long as 12". plus the amount of baby plants they can produce is overwhelming. i ran out of tank space for spare plants, even after selling lots of them.
TIP - from my experience it is best to leave baby java fern plants attached to the mother plants aslong as u can. they tend to grow bigger an quicker that way i find.
_________________ 6 tanks from 40g - 6g
100s of baby convicts, 6 harlequins, 6 black neons, 5 zebra danios, 5 kuhli loaches, lots of varying corys, 2 clown loaches, 2 bristlenose plecs, lots of shrimps. 30+ bristlenose babies and lots of baby zebra danios
Joined: 27 Dec 2005 Posts: 1851 Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 7:24 pm Post subject:
MuckyPaw wrote:
it is best to leave baby java fern plants attached to the mother plants as long as u can. they tend to grow bigger
That's the same with Swords, and probably most runners. At the moment I'm swinging toward the Swords in a big way, letting such plants as the Cabomba dwindle.
And so, I'm 'training' the runners along where I want them, and just leaving them to grow as they are.
Good to read you again, Nick. I almost didn't recognise you !
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum